Plain Velvets

Working with the pile

Velvet has a cut pile standing up from the base cloth, and that pile is what gives it the depth of colour and the way the shade shifts as it moves. It also means velvet has a direction: run your hand along it and it feels smooth one way, rough the other.

Cut every piece with the pile running the same way or the panels will read as different colours once sewn. Sew with the pile rather than against it, use plenty of pins or a walking foot because the layers creep, and never press on the face — steam it from the back or hang it over steam to lift crushed pile.